Korean Fried Chicken

Posted on May 16, 2025 by Adam Bell

Recipe excerpt from:
Umma
by Sarah Ahn & Nam Soon Ahn

I never used to be a big fan of fried chicken. There wasn’t anything in particular that I disliked about it, but I just never craved it or cared much for it. That all changed when I tried Korean fried chicken for the first time at Jin Mi Chicken, a bustling restaurant in Suwon, South Korea. There, they serve only two flavors: plain fried chicken and spicy glazed fried chicken. My uncle had ordered two large plates of each flavor for us. “Is this for the entire family?” I asked him. “No, this is just for you.

Trust me, you’ll finish the entire thing.” I recall feeling a bit anxious as I faced Samchon’s expectation that I would be able to finish two plates full of fried chicken; however, as I took my first bite, my concern gave way to amazement. This was the most delicious fried chicken I had tasted to date, and my memories will not let me forget it. The outside was perfectly crisp and seasoned with a blend of savory spices, complementing the soft and juicy chicken meat underneath. Before I knew it, I had two buckets in front of me filled with nothing but bones. Upon returning home to the United States, I struggled to find Korean fried chicken that matched the quality and taste I had experienced at Jin Mi Chicken. While many restaurants oﬀer decent versions, nothing was as memorable as what I had eaten in Korea. That is, until Umma developed her own fried chicken recipe, inspired by my described memory.

To me, Umma’s fried chicken is not just “good enough”— It’s exceptional. It brings me back to the amazement that I felt in Korea. Her fried chicken is a work of art—perfectly crispy, yet light and flavored with a harmonious blend of spices. Described by Umma as a “wave-patterned” crust (meant to resemble the waves of the ocean) and accomplished by “shocking” the battered chicken by tapping it against the bowl before frying it, the distinctive pattern is key to achieving the signature crisp and crunch. Having now shared this with friends, family, and fried chicken lovers in my life, I can say that Umma’s fried chicken has been repeatedly hailed as some of the best.

SERVES 4 to 6
TOTAL TIME 11⁄4 hours, plus 3 hours soaking and seasoning

3 pounds (1.4 kilograms) chicken wings, cut at joints,
wingtips discarded
21⁄2 cups milk
2 teaspoons black pepper, divided
1 teaspoon miwon matsogeum (MSG seasoning salt)
31⁄2 cups (420 grams) Korean frying mix, divided
5 tablespoons (50 grams) curry powder, divided
1 tablespoon Dasida beef stock powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
11⁄2 cups cold water
2–3 quarts vegetable oil for frying

Rinse drain the chicken, then transfer it to a large bowl or container. Add the milk and toss to coat. Arrange the chicken in an even layer, making sure all the chicken is submerged in the milk. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Drain and thoroughly rinse the chicken until the water runs clear. Clean and dry the bowl. Using the tip of a sharp paring knife, pierce each wing 3 to 5 times on each side around the bone (the tip of the knife should puncture through to the other side). Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and transfer to the bowl.
Add 1 teaspoon pepper and the seasoning salt and toss the chicken to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Set a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, heat the oil in an electric fryer to 330 degrees. Whisk 11⁄2 cups (180 grams) frying mix, 3 tablespoons curry powder, the Dasida powder, garlic powder, and onion powder together in a separate large bowl. Gradually whisk in the cold water until the batter is just combined (it’s okay if small lumps remain; be careful not to overmix). Add the chicken and toss to coat it in the batter.
Whisk the remaining 2 cups (240 grams) frying mix, remaining 2 tablespoons curry powder, and remaining 1 teaspoon pepper together in a medium bowl. Working with 1 piece at a time, use tongs to fully coat the chicken in the batter once more. Lift the wing, allowing excess batter to drip back into the bowl, and transfer it to the seasoned frying mixture. Using your hands, toss the wing to coat it (do not press the piece into the flour), then gently tap the wing against the side of the bowl twice to “shock” it (this is what gives the fried chicken its wave pattern). Carefully lower half of the wing piece into the hot oil, hold for 3 seconds, then release the piece completely into the oil. Repeat with 5 more wing pieces. Cook, undisturbed, for about 2 minutes, then use the tongs to release the wings from the base of the fryer basket. Continue to cook, turning the wings occasionally, until golden brown and crisp and the chicken registers at least 165 degrees, 5 to 7 minutes for wingettes and 7 to 10 minutes for drumettes.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the wings to the prepared rack as they finish cooking. Return the oil to 330 degrees and repeat with the remaining wings in batches. Serve.

Umma’s Kitchen Wisdom

I prefer to use Ottogi brand mild curry powder for this recipe, but other mild curry powders work too. I love the convenience of pre-split chicken wings and opt for smaller wings whenever possible. I also cook the wingettes and drumettes separately, since they have diﬀerent cooking times.

I use an electric deep fryer for my fried chicken, though you can also use a large, wide pot or Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more. Add the oil to the pot until it measures about 2 inches deep and heat over medium- high heat to 330 degrees. Adjust the heat as needed to maintain the temperature.

Excerpted from Umma by Sarah Ahn & Nam Soon Ahn . Copyright © 2025.
Courtesy of America’s Test Kitchen, All Rights Reserved. Photo by Kritsada Panichg
Author headshots photography credit Jake Choi

Show 357, January 25, 2020: Show Preview with Executive Producer Andy Harris and Chef Andrew Gruel of the Slapfish Restaurant Group

Posted on January 26, 2020 by Adam Bell

Now a tantalizing preview of this Saturday’s scrumptious show. It’s not, with profuse apologies, for dieters. If we’re successful we will hopefully leave you incredibly hungry and thirsty. In our case that’s probably a pretty good thing… As always, we greatly appreciate you being a part of our loyal listening audience. Truly couldn’t do it without you.

After 8 years as the popular Executive Chef at the prestigious Jonathan Club (Downtown Los Angeles and on the beach in Santa Monica) Jason McClain has amicably departed to pursue some entrepreneurial culinary adventures on his own. At Jonathan Club Chef McClain took traditional club fare in the elevated direction of fine dining at a highly rated, independent restaurant. On the horizon is McClain Chophouse, an ingredient-focused premium steak house and, just for fun, an authentic Philly Cheesesteak food truck. We’ll get an “a la minute” update from Chef Jason.

In December, Chef Josiah Citrin debuted the reimagined Mélisse and Citrin, two new culinary concepts under one iconic roof. After closing Michelin two-star Mélisse in Santa Monica last year, Chef Josiah rethought the award-winning dining destination as an engaging, luxe tasting menu restaurant alongside Citrin, an inviting, á la carte concept paying homage to the original Mélisse’s culinary legacy. With this double debut of anticipated restaurants, Chef Josiah continues to solidify his status as a central figure of fine dining in Los Angeles. Chef Josiah joins us,

DANCIN Vineyards (Medford, Oregon) is a lush, Italian-esque vineyard estate where tasting is an experience of enjoyment and relaxation, where wines are served alongside harmonious food pairings. The hospitable proprietors are the gracious husband & wife team of Dan and Cindy Marca . Since we last visited the estate in 2015 the hospitality features for visitors have expanded. Dan Marca is our guest with the update.

Located in Long Beach’s Belmont Heights, Panxa Cocina is a purveyor of modern Latin cuisine from the esteemed Chef / Proprietor Arthur Gonzalez. Since opening, Chef Gonzalez has been serving both quality interpretations of classic dishes and daring new ventures into the uncharted territories of food. We’re celebrating Panxa’s 5^th Anniversary with Chef Art.

Our own Chef Andrew Gruel of the Slapfish Restaurant Group joins us with another informative “Ask the Chef” segment. MSG (monosodium glutamate) is back in the news as an often-used food additive. What’s in it and should it be avoided? Cutting through the chatter we’ll “Ask the Chef.”

All of this and heaping helpings of extra deliciousness on this week’s not-to-miss show!

Show 357, January 25, 2020: Co-Host Chef Andrew Gruel with “Ask the Chef”

Posted on January 26, 2020 by Adam Bell

What’s in it and should it be avoided? We’ll “Ask the Chef.”

January 25: Jason McLain, Josiah Citrin, Dancin Vineyards, Panxa Cocina 5th Anniversary

Posted on January 23, 2020 by Adam Bell

Podcasts

Segment One: Show Preview with Executive Producer Andy Harris and Chef Andrew Gruel of the Slapfish Restaurant Group
Segment Two: Chef Jason McClain, McClain Chophouse and Philly Jay’s Steaks
Segment Three: Chef Josiah Citrin of Melisse and Citrin, Santa Monica
Segment Four: Dancin Vineyards with Proprietor Dan Marca Part One
Segment Five: Dancin Vineyards with Proprietor Dan Marca Part Two
Segment Six: Chef / Proprietor Arthur Gonzalez – Panxa Cocina, Long Beach – Part One
Segment Seven: Chef / Proprietor Arthur Gonzalez – Panxa Cocina, Long Beach – Part Two
Segment Eight: Co-Host Chef Andrew Gruel with “Ask the Chef”

After 8 years as the popular Executive Chef at the prestigious Jonathan Club (Downtown Los Angeles and on the beach in Santa Monica) Jason McClain has amicably departed to pursue some culinary adventures on his own. At Jonathan Club Chef McClain took traditional club fare in the elevated direction of fine dining at a highly rated, independent restaurant. On the horizon is McClain Chophouse, an ingredient-focused premium steak house and, just for fun, an authentic Philly Cheesesteak food truck. We’ll get an “a la minute” update from Chef Jason.

DANCIN Vineyards (Medford, Oregon) is a lush, Italian-esque vineyard estate where tasting is an experience of enjoyment and relaxation, where wines are served alongside harmonious food pairings. The hospitable proprietors are the gracious husband & wife team of Dan and Cindy Marca. Since we last visited the estate in 2015 the hospitality features for visitors have expanded. Dan Marca is our guest with the update.

Located in Long Beach’s Belmont Heights, Panxa Cocina is a purveyor of modern Latin cuisine from the esteemed Chef / Proprietor Arthur Gonzalez. Since opening, Chef Gonzalez has been serving both quality interpretations of classic dishes and daring new ventures into the uncharted territories of food. We’re celebrating Panxa’s 5^th Anniversary with Chef Art.

Our own Chef Andrew Gruel of the Slapfish Restaurant Group joins us with another informative “Ask the Chef” segment. MSG is back in the news as an often-used food additive. What’s in it and should it be avoided? We’ll “Ask the Chef.”

All of this and heaping helpings of extra deliciousness on this week’s not-to-miss show!

On the horizon is McClain Chophouse, an ingredient-focused premium steak house and, just for fun, an authentic Philly Cheesesteak food truck (Philly Jay’s Steaks.)

“Chef McClain received his formal training at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in Hyde Park, NY and honed his skills under the tutelage of some of the USA’s great culinary talents in Philadelphia and Miami. He has evolved his menus by focusing on one thing : ingredients.”

“At Jonathan Club Chef Jason joined forces with a local urban farming company to plant a 42-bed rooftop garden. Four times each year he used his expertise to contribute to the surrounding neighborhood by inviting underprivileged youth to visit the Club to learn the value of growing fresh ingredients firsthand.”

We’ll get an “a la minute” update from Chef Jason.

Last December, Chef Josiah Citrin debuted the reimagined Mélisse and Citrin, two new culinary concepts under one iconic roof. After closing Michelin two-star Mélisse in Santa Monica last year, Chef Josiah remade the award-winning dining destination as an engaging, luxe, intimate tasting menu restaurant alongside Citrin, an inviting, á la carte concept paying homage to the original Mélisse’s culinary legacy.

Chef/Partner Ken Takayama, Wine Director Matthew Luczy, and General Manager James Spencer, all formerly of Mélisse, helm both restaurants which were designed by Dex Studios and Redford House. With this double debut of anticipated restaurants, Chef Josiah continues to solidify his status as a central figure of fine dining in Los Angeles.

“Located within the Mélisse space that flourished in Santa Monica for two decades, Chef Josiah and Chef/Partner Ken Takayama revived their Michelin two-star institution with a new service model which brings a more personal, intimate approach to service. Challenging the format of traditional restaurant service, Mélisse brings the intimacy of the kitchen directly to guests with chefs and sommeliers—who also double as servers—leading diners through the experience. The nine-course tasting menu is intended to bring a sense of discovery, shifting in accordance with the seasons while adhering to Chef Josiah’s signature California progressive cooking style.”

“Drawing from Chef Josiah’s classical French training and longtime connection with the Santa Monica Farmers Market, the coursed tasting menu ($295) can be accompanied by a France and California-focused wine pairing ($195) from Wine Director and Certified Sommelier Matthew Luczy. Guests can also opt for a non-alcoholic pairing ($195), featuring housemade kombucha and infusions.”

“An extension of the original Mélisse, Citrin offers an upscale yet comfortable, convivial, and fun dining experience where guests can expect the same meticulous attention to detail and technique for which chefs Josiah Citrin and Ken Takayama are celebrated. Executed in a California progressive style, the á la carte menu inherits some of the signature dishes that made Mélisse a bastion of the Los Angeles fine dining landscape, including Lobster Bolognese and Caviar Egg.”

“Seasonal ingredients shine on Citrin’s menu in dishes like Truffle Pasta with house-made tagliatelle, truffle foam, and white truffles shaved tableside; Wild Japanese Yellowtail “Buri” with radish, grapefruit, and nori; and Santa Barbara Rockfish with chive blossoms, mussels, mussel broth, and quince mustard.”

“Distinct from the 77-seat dining room, the 22-seat bar offers the full menu and cocktails (which take their names from some of Chef Josiah’s favorite songs), as well as a special burger exclusive to the bar. Citrin’s rock n’ roll cocktail list, also available to order at Mélisse, includes libations like the Love Me Two Times made with mezcal, cherry liqueur, cinnamon demerara, yuzu, and angostura; as well as the Wild Horses with white rum, Pimm’s, blueberry-thyme syrup, lime, and angostura.”

Chef Josiah Cirtin surfs in with all the details.

DANCIN Vineyards (Medford, Oregon) is a lush, Tuscan Italian-esque vineyard estate known for award-winning Pinot Noir and Chardonnay where tasting is an experience of enjoyment and relaxation, where wines are served alongside harmonious food pairings. The hospitable proprietors are the gracious husband & wife team of Dan and Cindy Marca. We last visited the picturesque hillside estate in 2015 and the facilities for guests have expanded since then. Time for an update.

The Marcas take only one thing more seriously than hospitality – growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes of exceptional quality and making premium wine that expresses the terroir of their special site while spotlighting the grape’s essential character.

“Our winery and tasting room are set magnificently on the forested foothills of Southern Oregon overlooking the Rogue Valley, one of the most unique terroirs in the wine making world. You’ll imagine you’ve been transported to Tuscany or Burgundy, or both!”

“DANCIN is the discipline of cultivating seven separate clones of Pinot Noir along with four distinct clones of Chardonnay to create several exquisite expressions of Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We blend these clones the way an artist mixes hues on a painter’s palette. We also artfully craft Barbera, Sangiovese, Syrah, Zinfandel and Port-style Pinot Noir. This, our various wines and vintages are named after movements within ballet, a form of dance wherein dedication and discipline are integral to the grace and beauty of the final performance.”

Dan pulls the DANCIN cork for us with an update.

Located in Long Beach’s Belmont Heights, Panxa Cocina is a purveyor of modern Latin cuisine from the esteemed Chef / Proprietor Arthur Gonzalez. Panxa Cocina opened in December 2014 and is located on the corner of Broadway and Termino in the Belmont Heights neighborhood of Long Beach. Since opening, Chef Gonzalez has been serving both quality interpretations of classic dishes and daring new ventures into the uncharted territories of food.

Known for their Weekend Brunch featuring Blue Corn Pancakes. Also popular for their Happy Hour.

“Panxa Cocina was born out of a lifetime of love for Latin cuisine and a desire to support locally sourced foods. Growing up in Cerritos, California, Chef Arthur Gonzalez helped his German mother and his Oaxacan grandmother prepare meals growing up.”

“After working in several restaurants in New Mexico, Chef Gonzalez was introduced to James Beard award-winning Chef Eric Distefano of Coyote Café and Geronimo, who became his mentor. While working at Señor Lucky’s in Santa Fé, Chef Gonzalez met Vanessa Auclair, his current business partner here in California.”

“Vanessa and Chef came back to Southern California to work at McKenna’s On The Bay in Long Beach as Manager and Head Chef, respectively, with the goal of creating delicious, clean and simple food. Their success at McKenna’s led to the opening of seafood focused Roe on Second Street in Belmont Shore. Deciding to try something new, Vanessa and Chef opened Panxa, inspired by their Southwestern roots, together creating a menu authentic to New Mexico and influenced by his family’s cooking throughout his childhood.”

“At Panxa, pronounced pan-zah (the Catalan word for belly), Chef Gonzalez has created a place for flavorful unique dishes, craft cocktails, wine, and an extensive tequila menu.”

We’re celebrating Panxa’s 5^th Anniversary with Chef Art.