October 3: E.J. Lagasse, LA Loves Alex’s Lemonade, Levain Bakery

Posted on September 30, 2026 by Adam Bell

“Son of legendary Chef Emeril Lagasse, E.J. Lagasse is making a splash in the New Orleans culinary scene in his own way. After graduating from culinary school at Johnson & Wales, he spent time refining his skills in some of the world’s most renowned kitchens including Core by Clare Smyth in London and Frantzén in Stockholm. In 2022, E.J. returned to New Orleans to take the helm as Chef, Co-Owner where he leads the day-to-day restaurant operations at Emeril’s. Following an extensive renovation in 2023, the flagship reopened with a refined menu that pays homage to the restaurant’s rich culinary heritage while incorporating innovative techniques and modern adaptations of Chef Emeril’s classics. The Emeril’s experience is a multi-course tasting menu highlighting seasonal ingredients. Emeril’s stands alone as the only restaurant in the MICHELIN Guide American South to receive two MICHELIN Stars, a distinction that recognizes exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.” E.J. takes a break from his busy kitchen to join us.

Delightful and delicious, L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade brings superstar chefs, brewers, vintners, and mixologists to Los Angeles in support of Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation (ALSF) and the fight against childhood cancer. The 2026 event is Saturday, October 17^th from 12 Noon to 4:00 p.m. on the UCLA Campus on Royce Quad. Hosted by Chef Suzanne Goin and business partner Caroline Styne (The Lucques Group,) along with Chef David Lentz, this family-friendly afternoon features one-of-a-kind food and drink samplings. Guests can meet the chefs behind the dishes and enjoy fine dining flavors from across the country. With over $1.3 million raised in 2025 and more than $12 million raised since its inception, the event’s impact continues to grow for children with cancer. Join us this year for unforgettable food, community, and fun for the whole family.” Caroline Styne, President and Wine Director of The Lucques Group joins us with all the salivating event details.

“Orange County’s wait for its own Levain Bakery ended early last month when the iconic bakery behind New York City’avorite six-ounce cookies opened its doors at strong>Fashion Island in Newport Beach. Levain’s first Orange County location brings its signature cookies, freshly baked breads, pastries and coffee to the region, marking the bakery’s fourth Southern California location and continuing Levain’s thoughtful retail bakery expansion. Having celebrated its milestone 30th anniversary last year, Levain Bakery now introduces its legendary handcrafted cookies, breads, pastries and neighborhood bakery experience to a new community of fans. Located within Fashion Island, Orange County’s premier shopping and culinary destination, the bakery joins Fashion Island’s collection of premier retailers and restaurants.” Founders Pam Weekes and Connie McDonald put down their dough scoops and join us.

Our own Chef Andrew Gruel, the menu-maker behind the full-service Calico Fish House (located in the Sunset Beach area of Huntington Beach) now joins us with his timely and informative “Ask the Chef” segment where he responds to listeners’ thoughtful inquiries. Today Chef Andrew talks about properly cooking dry pasta in the home kitchen. What is the purpose of salting the water the pasta is cooling in?

All of this and heaping helpings of extra deliciousness on this week’s not-to-miss show!

“Son of legendary Chef Emeril Lagasse, E.J. Lagasse is making a splash in the New Orleans culinary scene in his own way. E.J. fell in love with food at a very young age. Growing up, he worked in the kitchens of his father’s restaurants, including at Meril in New Orleans and Emeril’s Coastal in Florida.”

“After graduating from culinary school at Johnson & Wales, he spent time refining his skills in some of the world’s most renowned kitchens including Core by Clare Smyth in London and Frantzén in Stockholm.”

“In 2022, E.J. returned to New Orleans to take the helm as Chef, Co-Owner where he leads the day-to-day restaurant operations at Emeril’s. Following an extensive renovation in 2023, the flagship reopened with a refined menu that pays homage to the restaurant’s rich culinary heritage while incorporating innovative techniques and modern adaptations of Chef Emeril’s classics. The Emeril’s experience is a multi-course tasting menu highlighting seasonal ingredients. Emeril’s stands alone as the only restaurant in the MICHELIN Guide American South to receive two MICHELIN Stars, a distinction that recognizes exceptional cuisine worth a special journey.”

“Adding to the celebration, in 2025 Chef E.J. received the MICHELIN Young Chef / Culinary Professional Award, sponsored by Sysco. The recognition underscores Lagasse’s vision and leadership in carrying forward his family’s culinary legacy while charting a bold, modern path for New Orleans dining.”

“Accessible through the Julia Street entrance, The Wine Bar at Emeril’s embodies the Lagasse’s love of food, wine, music and art. Guests have access to the distinctive wine cellar at Emeril’s in a relaxed and fun atmosphere, complemented by signature small plates.”

E.J. takes a break from his busy kitchen to join us.

Caroline Styne of Lucques Restaurant Group

“Delightful and delicious, L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade brings superstar chefs, brewers, vintners, and mixologists to Los Angeles in support of Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation (ALSF) and the fight against childhood cancer. The 2026 event is Saturday, October 17^th from 12 Noon to 4:00 p.m. on the UCLA Campus on Royce Quad.”

“Hosted by Chef Suzanne Goin and business partner Caroline Styne (The Lucques Group,) along with Chef David Lentz, this family-friendly afternoon features one-of-a-kind food and drink samplings. Guests can meet the chefs behind the dishes and enjoy fine dining flavors from across the country.”

“With over $1.3 million raised in 2025 and more than $12 million raised since its inception, the event’s impact continues to grow for children with cancer. Join us this year for unforgettable food, community, and fun for the whole family.”

“Inspired while attending The Great Chefs Event Philadelphia, hosts Suzanne Goin, business partner Caroline Styne (The Lucques Group) and David Lentz decided to hold a similar event in the Los Angeles area. Enlisting the help of culinary friends from the Los Angeles area and throughout the United States, the L.A. Loves Alex’s Lemonade event was created.”

Caroline Styne, President and Wine Director of The Lucques Group joins us with all the salivating event details.

Connie McDonald and Pam Weekes of Levain Bakery

“Orange County’s wait for its own Levain Bakery ended early last month when the iconic bakery behind New York City’s favorite six-ounce cookies opened its doors at Fashion Island in Newport Beach. Levain’s first Orange County location brings its signature cookies, freshly baked breads, pastries and coffee to the region, marking the bakery’s fourth Southern California location and continuing Levain’s thoughtful retail bakery expansion.”

“Having celebrated its milestone 30th anniversary last year, Levain Bakery now introduces its legendary handcrafted cookies, breads, pastries and neighborhood bakery experience to a new community of fans. Located within Fashion Island, Orange County’s premier shopping and culinary destination, the bakery joins Fashion Island’s collection of premier retailers and restaurants.”

“We have always felt that Levain brings people together, and our LA Bakeries have shown us that Southern California agrees,” commented co-founders and best friends Pam Weekes and Connie McDonald. “Levain in Newport Beach feels like the next natural step and can’t wait to open our doors at Fashion Island.”

“Founded in New York City in 1995 by Weekes and McDonald, whose delicious breads and baked goods that immediately resonated with the neighborhood, drawing anticipation for their daily offerings. When the two decided to quietly start selling cookies, they flew out the door and an icon was born.”

“Today, Levain’s crispy-on-the-outside-gooey-on-the-inside cookies have become a cultural phenomenon, drawing devoted fans from around the world while staying true to the bakery’s humble beginnings. Remaining true to its neighborhood bakery origins, Levain continues the tradition of crafting its signature breads, pastries and six-ounce cookies by hand each day, using the same high-quality ingredients that defined its beginnings.”

“Guests visiting the Newport Beach bakery will find Levain’s full assortment of freshly baked favorites, including its signature cookies, artisan breads, savory sandwiches, muffins, and pastries. The new location also features Levain’s full barista service, offering cappuccinos, cold-foam drinks, matcha and lattes, including a viral Cookie Milk Latte. The Orange County opening now takes the brand to 20 bakery locations from coast to coast, joining bakeries in New York, Washington, D.C., Bethesda, Boston, Los Angeles, Chicago and Philadelphia.”

Pam Weekes and Connie McDonald put down their dough scoops and join us.

Chef Andrew Gruel savoring a New Jersey style Pizza

Today Chef Andrew talks about properly cooking dry pasta in the home kitchen. What is the purpose of salting the water the pasta is cooling in?

Andrew Gruel’s Family Cookbook is available with signed copies at his Calico Fish House on Pacific Coast Highway in Sunset Beach.

Show 672, March 28, 2026: Restaurateur Katie Lee, Katie’s Pizza & Pasta and Katie’s Fine Foods, St. Louis

Posted on March 30, 2026 by Adam Bell

Katie Lee of Katie's Restaurant and Frozen Foods

“St. Louis’ Chef Katie Lee is a multiple-unit restaurateur, entrepreneur, author and innovator. “Katie Lee’s journey from high school dropout and recovering addict to successful founder of Katie’s is the embodiment of resilience and passion. She launched her first restaurant in 2008, igniting the artisan Italian pizza movement in the Midwest. Today, Katie is leading a transformative shift in the frozen food industry, blending authentic artisan techniques with national-scale ambition.” She is our guest.

“What began as a single neighborhood pizzeria has grown into a celebrated culinary institution. Katie’s now operates three award-winning restaurants in St. Louis. As a 100% woman-owned business, the brand has become a pillar of excellence in the Midwest food scene, earning titles like Best Pizza in St. Louis for ten consecutive years, Best Pasta for seven, and Best Restaurant for the past three. Katie herself has been honored as St. Louis Chef of the Year for six years running, a testament to her leadership, culinary vision and relentless devotion to quality, creativity, and soul.”

“Katie’s is more than food — it’s a philosophy. Every Pizza, Pasta Bake, and Sauce is a testament to real ingredients, honest artisanal techniques, and the belief that meals should nourish both the body and the soul. In a time when consumers are requiring authenticity and quality, Katie’s stands as a beacon for those who demand more from their meals. We are redefining the grocery aisles with artisan products that bring restaurant-quality experiences into homes across America. Inspired by Katie Lee’s story and her relentless pursuit of excellence, Katie’s is transforming what convenience can mean in modern food.”

In SoCal Katie’s gourmet pizzas (frozen) are available at Gelson’s and Target. Target will soon be carrying the full line of Katie’s Fine Foods products including pasta sauces, pasta and olive oil. Availability at Walmart happens in the 4th Quarter.

Show 668, February 28, 2026: Pasta Sisters, Culver City with Francesco & Giorgia Sinatra

Posted on March 2, 2026 by Adam Bell

“Pasta Sisters is an Italian family-owned, fast-casual Italian restaurant and fresh pasta shop that uses generational recipes passed down through their Northern Italian family (they are originally from Padova.) The uber-popular SoCal pasta spot has seen lines virtually out the door since its opening 10 years ago and now has three locations: Culver City, Mid-City, and Costa Mesa. Pasta Sisters makes their pasta and sauces fresh from scratch daily, starting at 6 a.m.”

“They have a steadfast commitment to using the highest-quality ingredients (often shipped from Italy, like their 00 flour from a mill in Veneto that uses 100% Italian wheat and no additives, preservatives or fillers of any kind) They also have a steadfast commitment to keeping prices as affordable as possible.”

“Pasta Sisters’ casual dining environment means no reservations are needed Guests simply walk in, order at the counter and enjoy. Wine and draft beers are also available.”

“Pasta Sisters began with Paola Da Re, mom to Francesco, Francesca, and Giorgia, all of whom are involved in the daily operations of Pasta Sisters. When Paola and the children moved to the States in 2010 (from the small town of Padova in Northern Italy), Paola worked as a nanny to two wonderful L.A families. Her lovingly prepared fresh pastas, gnocchi, pans of lasagna and tiramisu were such hits with the households, she was often encouraged to open her own restaurant.”

“In 2015, Paola opened her first restaurant: an intimate, deli counter-style shop with just three tables in the Pico / Mid City neighborhood of Los Angeles. And it was quickly a hit. In 2018, they opened a second location: a sun-soaked indoor/outdoor restaurant located within the historic Helms Bakery District in Culver City. Finally in March of 2025, the family opened their first location outside of Los Angeles in nearby Costa Mesa, Orange County—a take-out and delivery-only space that allows them to share their food with a wider audience.”

Co-Founders Francesco and Giorgia Sinatra take a break from the pasta making to join us.

Show 665, February 7, 2026: Stadium Pepz Pizza & Eatery, Anaheim with Executive Chef & Co-Founder Chris Sarkissian

Posted on February 9, 2026 by Adam Bell

Chris Sarkissian of Stadium Pepz Pizza and Eatery

Stadium Pepz Pizza & Eatery in Anaheim is one of the participating restaurants in the inaugural SoCal Pizza Week. We’ll meet proprietor and chef, Chris Sarkissian.

“Since opening in 2001, Stadium Pepz Pizza has perfected the art of hand-crafted recipes that bring authentic delicious flavors to every dish. At Stadium Pepz Pizza in Anaheim, a local, family-owned business, they continue this legacy by offering an upbeat, curated dining experience for every guest. From the pizza to salads, pasta, sandwiches, the best wings in Anaheim and more, their menu offers something for everyone.”

“The Anaheim team is dedicated to serving guests with fresh quality food, friendly service, and the best pizza delivery and take-out in Anaheim, Garden Grove, Yorba Linda, La Habra, Placentia, Tustin, Orange, and Santa Ana. Ownership is equally passionate about supporting their community and proudly give back through various initiatives as a family-owned business. Visit Stadium Pepz Pizza and Eatery in Anaheim or order online to enjoy their exclusive pizza deals.”

Cacio e Pepe

Posted on January 3, 2026 by Adam Bell

Recipe excerpt from:
Vegana Italiana
by Tara Punzone

Serves 2 to 4

Cacio e pepe is probably the most popular pasta dish in Rome. On countless occasions when I lived in Rome, I felt my mouth watering wildly, watching people eat it up while knowing that I couldn’t have any, as cacio e pepe means “cheese and pepper.” Of course, my version has no dairy cream or cheese. It’s just a clean vegan cheese sauce with lots of black pepper— and it’s the second-most popular dish on the Pura Vita menu.

1 cup raw, unsalted cashews
1/2 cup filtered water
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
2 teaspoons nutritional yeast
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon sea salt, plus
2 tablespoons for the pasta water
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, plus more for topping
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound bucatini
Chopped fresh parsley

Soak the cashews in water for a minimum of 4 hours. Drain and rinse well before using.
In a large pot, bring 4 to 6 quarts of water to a rolling boil.
Meanwhile, in a high- speed blender, combine the cashews, water, lemon juice, vinegar, yeast, garlic, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and the pepper. Blend until smooth.
With the blender running on low speed, slowly add the olive oil until smooth.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt to the boiling water. Add the bucatini and cook until very al dente, a little more than half the recommended cooking time.
Pour all the cacio e pepe sauce into a large sauté pan and warm it over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, just enough to make it piping hot.
Use pasta tongs to transfer the bucatini to the sauté pan and add 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water.
Cook the bucatini in the sauce, tossing it around until it absorbs all the water and is perfectly al dente. Check to make sure the pasta does not overcook. Add more pasta water if needed.
Top with parsley and pepper.

Excerpted from VEGANA ITALIANA by Tara Punzone & Gene Stone. Copyright © 2025 by Tara Punzone & Gene Stone. Used by permission of Rodale Books, an imprint of Random House, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher

Eric Anderson: Photo Credit

Tiramisu

Posted on January 3, 2026 by Adam Bell

Recipe excerpt from:
Vegana Italiana
by Tara Punzone

Serves 6 to 8

When I was very young, one of my favorite desserts was tiramisu. I loved the taste of the coffee, I loved that it was so creamy, I loved all its various layers. When I became vegan and realized I might never have tiramisu ever again, I was crushed— and vowed that someday I would figure out how to make it dairy free. So I did. To make this tiramisu, you will need to buy either vegan ladyfingers or vegan vanilla cake (rather than the extra step of making them yourself, which, of course, you are welcome to do!).

4 cups raw, unsalted cashews
Two 14- ounce packs silken tofu, drained
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons agave syrup
3/4 cup refined coconut oil
1 cup unsweetened soy milk
1 tablespoon vanilla paste
1/2 teaspoon sea salt

Espresso

16 ounces brewed, cold espresso
2 tablespoons agave syrup
1/4 cup dark rum

Tiramisu

Ladyfingers or vanilla cake
1 tablespoon Dutch- processed cocoa powder for dusting

Make the cashew mascarpone: Soak the cashews in water for
at least 4 hours. Drain and rinse them well before using.
In a high- speed blender, combine the cashews, silken tofu, agave syrup, coconut oil, soy milk, vanilla paste, and salt. Blend until velvety smooth.
Transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside in the refrigerator to solidify and cool to a temperature of 40°F.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the espresso, agave syrup, and rum.
Assemble the tiramisu: Layer the bottom of a 5 by 8- inch baking pan (at least 2 to 3 inches deep) with ladyfingers. Pour 1 cup of the espresso mixture over the ladyfingers to soak them completely. Add a 1- inch- half of the mascarpone). Smooth the surface.
Add another layer of ladyfingers and pour the remaining thick layer of the mascarpone (using espresso mixture over them and soak completely. Add a second 1- inch- thick layer of mascarpone. Smooth the surface.
Place the baking dish in the refrigerator to set for at least 4 hours before serving.
Top with cocoa powder to serve. Use a shaker or sifter for the cocoa powder so you can get an even cover without clumps.

Eric Anderson: Photo Credit

Ratatouille

Posted on May 22, 2025 by Adam Bell

Recipe excerpt from:
The Meathead Method
by Meathead

Yep, Meathead makes vegan dishes occasionally. You may never make ratatouille the Disney way again. I like to serve it over pasta, but you can serve it on couscous or rice. It is even good cold, so bring it to a party. Try the Eggplant Parm on the website and in the last book.

MAKES 6 servings
TAKES 15 minutes to prep, about 20 minutes to cook

1 pound eggplant
1 pound zucchini or yellow squash
1 pound meaty tomatoes, such as Romas or San Marzanos
1 large red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, or a mix
1 large onion
Morton Coarse Kosher Salt
Inexpensive olive oil
2 garlic cloves
2 teaspoons fresh thyme
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Medium-grind black pepper
16 ounces dried pasta (I like farfalle / little bow ties)
Fresh basil, oregano, chives, and/or thyme, for garnish
Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish
OPTIONAL: High-quality olive oil

PREP THE VEGGIES. With a potato peeler, peel 3 or 4 stripes of skin off the eggplant, top to bottom. You want to get some of the skin off but leave at least half on. The skin has flavor and nutrients, but if you don’t take some off, it is more difficult to cut and chew. Cut the eggplant crosswise into discs 1/2 inch thick. Cut the zucchini lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thickplanks or crosswise into discs. Cut the tomatoes in half from top to bottom. Cut the bell pepper in half lengthwise and remove the seeds and stems. Peel the onion, cut off the stem and top ends, and cut it in half across the equator. Insert two toothpicks into each half from the sides to hold them together.
FIRE UP. Get the grill running in 2 zones and get the hot side up to about Warp 7.
GRILL THE VEGGIES. Dump the eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, and onion onto a sheet pan, sprinkle one side lightly with salt, and paint all sides with olive oil. Add the veggies to the grill grates over the hot side and grill until they get a few brown stripes, but don’t cook until they turn to mush. Leave a little crunch. As they finish, you can snatch the skins off the tomatoes and discard them; they should come off easily with a pinch. Chop the rest of the veggies (not the tomatoes) into bite-sized chunks and slide them into a bowl.
MAKE THE TOMATO SAUCE. Peel and mince or press the garlic. In a cast-iron skillet set over direct heat on the grill (or on a burner), heat 1 tablespoon inexpensive olive oil until hot. Add the garlic, thyme, pepper flakes, and black pepper to taste, and cook only for about a minute, enough to kill the garlic’s rawness. Add the tomatoes, smush them, and cook until the sauce thickens a bit, perhaps 5 minutes. Add the rest of the veggies and liquid from the bowl, stir, and warm over medium heat.
PASTA. On the stovetop, bring 1 gallon of water to a boil for the pasta and add about 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the pasta and cook to al dente according to the package directions.
SERVE. Drain the pasta, move it to a big bowl, pour on the tomato sauce, then pile on the rest of the veggies. Garnish and gently mix the herbs and Parmigiano in so they warm and exude their perfume. If you like, do as they do in Italy, and drizzle a high-quality olive oil over the top of each individual serving (especially if you plan to serve it cold).

Show 614, February 1, 2025: Bar Becky, Long Beach, with Executive Chef Johnathan Benvenuti

Posted on February 3, 2025 by Adam Bell

“Bar Becky, which quietly opened in 2024 at Long Beach Exchange (LBX) after a series of pop-ups, is an Italian American kitchen by Chef Johnathan Benvenuti, a Southern California native and Hell’s Kitchen Finalist from last season, and partner Jason Scarborough, a Michelin-star restaurant industry veteran and sommelier.”

“Bar Becky is Chef Johnathan Benvenuti’s tribute to his mother, Becky. Open for dinner every day, the scratch kitchen features focaccia, house made pastas, and a constantly evolving collection of comforting classics and chef-driven creations. They strive to feature the freshest produce from local farmers and artisan producers.”

New at Bar Becky’s is Brunch Service and a Weekend Chef’s Counter Menu (a creative and seasonal prix fixe menu offered at the counter every Friday and Saturday.)

Bar Becky is part of Dine L.A. Restaurant Week through Friday, February 7th.

“Bar Becky is located at LBX (Long Beach Exchange) at 3860 Worsham Ave., Long Beach, CA 90808. The restaurant is open Monday through Thursday from 5 to 8:30 p.m.; Friday from 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday from 11a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m.; and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4 to 7:30 p.m. For reservations, please visit their website or call (562) 421-0200.”

Chef Johnathan takes a break from Brunch service to join us.

Show 576, May 4, 2024: Restaurateur and Chef Jonathan Benvenuti – Bar Becky at Long Beach Exchange, Long Beach

Posted on May 5, 2024 by Adam Bell

“Bar Becky at the Long Beach Exchange is Chef Jonathan Benvenuti’s tribute to his mom, Becky, who was the inspiration behind him becoming a chef.” Partner Jason Scarborough is the accomplished Beverage Director. It’s also a partnership with Chef Ross Pangilinan of Mix Mix Hospitality.

“Chef Benvenuti was previously the runner-up on Gordon Ramsay’s “Hell’s Kitchen.” Chef Jonathan chats a bit about that experience along the way. It’s an Italian-American kitchen featuring scratch-made focaccia, house-crafted pasta and an ever-evolving menu of comfort classics and chef-driven creations.”

Current menu standouts are Grandma’s Focaccia (with anchovy dip), Mom’s Carrots (with maple syrup, burrata and almonds), Pappardelle (with beef cheek, chanterelle mushrooms, and “sour cream”), and Chicken & Dumplings (with pearl onion, potato dumplings and roasted chicken jus.)

At present it’s Wednesday thru Sunday for Dinner. Brunch is on the horizon.

Chef Jonathan Benvenuti takes a break from his busy kitchen to join us.

Super-Mushroomy Tiny Pasta Cooked Creamy Like Risotto (But Easier)

Posted on April 18, 2024 by Adam Bell

Recipe excerpt from:
The Global Pantry Cookbook
by Ann Taylor Pittman and Scott Mowbray

Active time: 30 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes
Serves 4

Global Pantry Ingredients:

Dried Porcini Mushrooms
Marsala

Headnote

Scott never quite mastered risotto, and mostly left it to the restaurant pros after he began cooking acini di pepe, a tiny semolina pasta shape similar in size to pearl couscous, in the risotto style, inspired by a Mark Bittman recipe of yore. The texture of the pasta here is delightfully supple. It’s an easy, earthy, sophisticated main dish, perfect with a medium-bodied Italian red such as a Barbera or a Valpolicella. Add the optional marsala if you like a slightly deeper, more winey flavor.

Try This!

Dried Porcini Mushrooms
Dried porcini possess a concentration of rich, earthy flavor, an unmatched essence of mushroom that’s released when soaked or powdered in a chopper. Look for American or European versions in supermarkets, Whole Foods, and online, in one or two-ounce packets.

Timing Tip

Cook Just Until Almost Done
The size and manufacturer of the pasta, and how vigorously you cook it, will vary the cooking time quite a bit. To avoid mush, stop when it’s just reaching the al dente stage—it will continue to cook as you add the cheese and serve. The consistency should be a bit saucy, not like seized-up porridge. Slightly larger pasta such as orzo will likely take a bit longer.

1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 medium onion, minced as finely as you can manage
1 cup cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced
12 ounces acini di pepe or other tiny pasta such as orzo
1/2 cup dry white wine
4 cups low-sodium chicken stock
1 tablespoon dry marsala wine or rich sherry (such as oloroso) (optional) 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme or oregano
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan, or 1 cup super-finely Microplane-grated Parmesan

Chop half of the dried mushrooms into pea-sized bits. Place in a small microwave-safe bowl with 1 cup of water and microwave on High for 2 minutes; set aside. Place the other half of the dried mushrooms in a mini food processor; pulverize to a powder, about 45 seconds (there will be small flecks or chunks in the powder, and that’s the idea).
Heat a Dutch oven or a large nonstick skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the butter, swirling until it melts. Add the onion; sauté until softened and blond in color, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Add the cremini mushrooms and sauté until just starting to soften, 3 minutes more. Add the soaked mushrooms with their liquid, the mushroom powder, and pasta; cook with the heat turned high enough for it to bubble energetically, stirring frequently until the liquid is absorbed, about 2 minutes.
This starts the risotto-style cooking process: Continue to stir, adding the white wine and then the stock a little at a time, letting the pasta absorb the liquid, before gradually adding the rest of the stock. When the pasta is almost cooked, about 18 minutes, add the marsala, if using, the thyme, and the salt. When the pasta is just al dente, correct the consistency with stock or hot water if necessary (it should be saucy, not porridge-like). Immediately portion into 4 bowls and top with a few turns of black pepper and the grated cheese.